I am tempted to describe The Brackenbury restaurant as a hidden gem but, of course, that would be misleading. Gem it definitely is whereas hidden implies that only a select few know about it, which is obviously not the case here.

There was no shortage of diners on this Tuesday evening during half-term week – one party arrived by taxi – suggesting that this is a popular destination and not just for the locals.

But first I should explain why I came down on the side of hidden. The truth is that, having lived in Chiswick for many years, I’ve been used to having a wide choice of dining establishments within walking distance of my house. So, apart from occasional forays into the West End, most of my eating out is done locally.

Breaking away from the norm proved to be a delightful experience in this instance and only a short hop on the 94 bus. The Brackenbury is located in Brackenbury Village, that peaceful residential oasis between Shepherd’s Bush and Hammersmith. It’s owned by head chef Humphrey Fletcher, who boasts an impressive CV, including The River Café, The Glasshouse and Kensington Place.

The layout of the restaurant, with its different levels, ‘garden’ room, soft lighting and walls adorned by London artists Penny Graham and Linda Heathcoat-Amory, is warm and inviting.

And now to the food. The common mantra among many top chefs is good quality ingredients cooked simply. I would say that this applies here. The Brackenbury bases its menus on the ingredients available, which are all sourced from London suppliers. This means that it offers different dishes on different days, in addition to some regular favourites.

The food is inspired by French and Italian cuisine and, on paper, is inventive and mouth-watering. I’m delighted to say that the reality more than lives up to the promise. I selected a starter of warm braised fennel, broad bean & Cantal (a French hard cheese) that was, with its minty freshness, like having summer in your mouth. My husband chose a ricotta & marjoram ravioli which proved to be a sublime light and creamy experience. He particularly liked the herby edge that the marjoram gave.

For mains, he opted for the onglet steak with béarnaise and frites. The steak was cooked to perfection, properly sealed and pink and juicy on the inside. I went for the braised veal cheek, risotto alla Milanese, roast bone marrow & gremolata. This was a wonderful combination of textures, the melt-in-the-mouth veal (you could cut it with a spoon) offset by the al dente of the rice, all wonderfully seasoned.

To finish I had poached meringue, rhubarb & custard. Poaching the meringue gives it a soft texture, rather like a marshmallow and it fitted superbly with the tartness of the rhubarb and the vanilla-infused custard. My husband had raspberry and almond tart. Here the sharpness of the raspberries cut through the richness of the almond filling and complemented by a dollop of crème fraiche.

The wine list offers an interesting selection of mainly French and Italian. We chose a Cahors 2014, Chateau du Caillau, a mighty Malbec but it didn’t overpower the food.

Our three-course meal with wine came to £89.75. The restaurant also offers a lunch menu at the rate of £15.50 for two courses and £18 for three courses.

The Brackenbury’s stated aim is to be one of the best neighbourhood restaurants in London. On this experience, I would say it has achieved this. The staff are welcoming and attentive, without being overly so, which helps to create a friendly ambience. It would be interesting to see what it would be like when it’s really busy. But I suspect that the high standards I witnessed would prevail. For me this is a gem that is no longer hidden.

The Brackenbury is located at 129-131 Brackenbury Rd, London W6 0BQ. Opening times are 12-2.30 pm and 6.60pm-9.30pm Tuesday to Saturday (closed Sunday and Monday). Call 020 8741 4928 or visit www.brackenburyrestaurant.co.uk

 

June 9, 2016