Funtime Frankie's

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Glitz, glamour and this time some grub!

Following my first visit to Frankie’s on its opening night, I have been rather keen to return to sample their food. And so, recalling the vast expanse of mirrors, my husband and I dressed in the finest designer threads our meagre wardrobe has to offer, teased our hair to perfection (well I did) and set off with expectations high and tummies empty.

Upon entering Frankies, we were at once surrounded by gold tinted mirrored walls and soft lighting that sets the glamorous tone. The bar area was buzzing with well dressed groups of diners having a drink whilst waiting for their tables. We decided to join them. Frankie’s bar area has a generous amount of low, comfortable leather chairs and tables. This was a Friday evening, and the bar, although busy, was not cramped and mercifully not too smoky owing to the open doors leading to the front courtyard.

After a flawless gin and tonic each, we were led to our table in the dining room. Two rows of circular tables fill this area, with the kitchen and its industrious chefs partially on view. Just like the bar, the dining room was animated with groups of families and friends enjoying celebration dinners and couples sharing romantic dinners, with noise levels tolerable.

The pressure was definitely on the waiting staff this particular evening with every table booked however, we didn’t have to wait long before our drinks order was taken. I like to make a point of asking for a wine recommendation for two reasons. Firstly, I believe that staff knowledge tells you a lot about a restaurant and secondly that I know only one thing about wine – I like it red. Our waiter recommended a 2004 Barbera “Bricco Tondo” from Piedmonte (£24.00) which was superb.

For starters we ordered Carpaccio of beef with olives (£8.75) which was delightful and Calamari and zucchini fritti (£7.95). I would have preferred larger pieces of calamari and zucchini, but the batter was just right and the portion size generous.

The mains were without doubt the triumph of the night. We went for Frankie’s Grills choosing a Frankie’s burger (£8.50) which came with a toasted bun, onion, tomato and excellent fries and Escalope of veal Milanese (£13.50). Both dishes were liberal in size, cooked well and quite simply delicious. Desert comprised of a pleasant crème caramel (£4.75) and coffee.

A 12.5% service charge is automatically added which brought the damage to £81.50 (not including pre-dinner drinks).

The Chiswick branch of Frankie’s is managed by Vincent Turron. Owned by galloping gourmets Frankie Dettori and Marco Pierre White, they chose Chiswick for their latest venture because Marco has always been a fan of the area but felt that there was nothing at all like Frankie's in Chiswick.

White also felt that locals would love the affordable glamour of it – and that is precisely what Frankie’s provides.

Emma Brophy

September 30, 2005