More Than A Bistro At Charlotte's
Anne Flaherty found sophisticated food during a visit to the Chiswick restaurant
I hadn't visited Charlotte's Bistro in Turnham Green Terrace for a number of years and the restaurant has been through a few different chefs since then.
So on my return (after a five year absence) I was keen to see what Michel Snela, formerly of Chez Bruce and Wild Honey, would bring to the menu. I was in for a pleasant surprise. The cooking was sophisticated, favoursome and creative, leading me to think that this is one of Chiswick's hidden gems.
The bar, which is situated to the left of the front entrance had some happy punters perched on the high seats when we arrived - Charlotte's Bistro prides itself on its selection on cocktails and I was certainly ready to try something refreshing.
We were shown to a table for two towards the rear of the room, which has a large conservatory roof. I noted that place was quite busy for a Tuesday evening and there was a convivial atmosphere.
First off we started off with two Rhubarb Bellinis which were delicious. Then we turned our attention to the menu which was varied and had a good selection- vegetarians are well catered for and there was a separate Gluten Free menu which contained almost all of the dishes on the regular menu.
It was a starter of Buffalo Mozzerella for me, with Salt Baked Beetroot, Balsamic and Olive Oil and Crispy Quinoa. The cheese was sweet and creamy and the soft texture contrasted beautifully with the soft crunch of the variety of beets . The quinoa was just drizzled over the display again giving a bit of texture.
My friend chose the Sea Bream Ceviche with Radish, Toasted Red Pepper Puree and Sweet Chilli and Lime. This was a beautifully pale pink colour and was of a melt in the mouth consistency. The acidity of the lime gave just enough tartness to the fish.
There were eight main courses to choose from, ranging from wild garlic risotto with morels, to Pollock ( very popular with London restaurants this year, though I think it a flavourless fish) and some meat dishes. The other fish on offer was Skate Wing, which did not take my fancy either. I opted for Braised and Roasted Lamb Breast with Hispi Cabbage, Anchovy and Olive Oil Mash.
Breast of Lamb is not something everyone is familier with- it is actually a rather fatty part of the stomach and requires long slow cooking, a bit similar to the way you cook a lamb shank.
The meat came served in a strip, like a pork belly, it was very tender and the flavour had become concentrated as the fat rendered into the meat. I happen to like anchovies though I know they are not to everyone's taste but I wouldn't let that deter anyone ordering this dish.Cabbage was crispy and the mash was creamy.
My friend ordered the Maple Glazed Duck Breast with Braised Fennel and Orange Puree. This was beautifully cooked, served pink, with the sweet sauce. She was very happy with her choice. We ordered some Spring Greens to make ourselves feel healthy.
Dessert for me was a gluten-free Polenta and Pistachio Cake which was served with Greek Yoghurt icecream and some Peanuts. My friend chose the Dark Chocolate Mousse with Banana Ice cream. They were both excellent.
We drank a Spanish white wine, recommended by our waiter, which complemented all the flavours beautifully. The staff were very friendly and attentive.
Charlotte's Bistro is described as "more daughter than sister" to the longstanding Charlotte's Place on Ealing Common but I think the Chiswick restaurant is now punching well above its weight. I look forward to a return visit in the near future.
Anne Flaherty
Charlotte's Bistro is now offering Brunch on Saturdays, Sundays and Bank Holidays, and there are good offers on Lunch (mon to Fri) at two-courses for £19.50 and 3 Courses for £24.50.
There is also an Early Diner offer of 3 Courses and Aperitif for £29.50 and a 2 Course Dinner Monday to Sunday for £28.50 (3 Courses are £34.50)
April 14, 2017